Travel

Have Y’all Ever Been to Cavallo Point?

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A bridge.

The views from Cavallo Point on a clear day are unmatched. (Cavallo Point)

So many of San Francisco’s natural treasures are free-to-access, such as the whimsical Pemberton Steps running through the center of the city and the Bay’s own hidden Mount Olympus. Yet there are some leisures that are for the big, bold, and brassy, the pleasures for the ritzy and luxe. Just across the Golden Gate Bridge lies one of the area’s finest resorts and spas perfect for both those in search of a shvitz and siesta and the history buffs. That combo is best satisfied at Cavallo Point, a somewhat unsung retreat that many in the city know nothing about.

Located beneath the bridge, Cavallo Point is a legendary former United States Army base with phenomenal lodging, food, drink, and wellness retreat energy. Acquired in 1866 by the government, the white and orange buildings harken to those early days before the outdoor pools and $600 rooms took over the grounds. In 2022, the resort flipped over its restaurant offerings, too, bringing in San Francisco-raised chef Michael Garcia for lobster veloute and Fort Bragg-sourced petrale sole. Plus, massages steps from the San Francisco Bay are just plain tough to top.

A spa.

The outdoor pool is not to be missed. (Cavallo Point)

The real move might be simply driving or biking across the bridge for a day of relaxing; If you’re hard up, save the money and don’t stay the night. Getting brunch at Farley, one of Garcia’s three restaurants on the grounds, before taking a walk around the grounds is pretty cheap, all things considered, and one could tack on a reservation at the tea bar or wellness center, too. As the property is quick to remind guests, there are 350 acres of trails for running, hiking, and biking available, too, which is all free; Biking to and from the resort from San Francisco is just a few miles and on a clear day is a fantastic outdoor trip along the water’s edge. Really, though, sitting beneath the brush on the hillside for a heated soak, or letting the steam clear out your pores in the sauna inside, is my idea of a destination treat.

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Paolo Bicchieri

Paolo Bicchieri

Paolo Bicchieri (he/they) is a writer living on the coast. He's a reporter for Eater SF and the author of three books of fiction and one book of poetry.