One Big Night At This Bernal Heights Fine Dining Restaurant

PHOTOS AND WORDS BY ANDY SAMWICK

I have been noticing the growing trend toward tasting menus some restaurants are taking. At Marlena, my companions and I indulged in an exceptionally lavish encounter with the restaurant’s current prix fixe menu. My friends were from out-of-town but had once lived here a few years ago — we decided to splurge. And it is no wonder why this is noted as a neighborhood favorite near Precita Park in Bernal Heights, though celebrated chef David Fisher and pastry chef Serena Chow Fisher are headed out. My guests and I were able to enjoy most of their recent seasonal spring menu that runs four courses for $75. You choose from two starters of either farro verde or the Hokkaido scallop. Then it’s on to a pasta course, in this case a nettle ravioli or Provencal white asparagus risotto.The two main courses that night were the seared black cod and the grilled pork collar. We enjoyed the tastes of everyone’s selections amongst the three of us. We even splurged with the Marlena milk bread and the restaurant’s house-made cultured butter.

(Forrest Katzer)

We also had one of their additional pasta dishes that was available for $30 on the evening’s menu. The spaghettoni with ramp pesto, Petrossian Baika caviar, and little neck clam butter may be one of my best bites this year, and I went to the chef to tell her exactly that with a huge smile on my face. (The roasted lamb loin was also an option to add to the table for $60 per dish that night, as well.) And for the finale, we got to tasting both desserts. First up, the Early Glenn cherry that had this pistachio crumble. Next was a chocolate rye-devil’s food cake with a seeded rye shortcake finished with blackberry. Total seduction! Marlena is open nightly Monday – Thursday 5:30 pm – 10:00 pm, Friday – Saturday 5:00 pm – 10:00 pm and Sunday 5:00 pm – 9:00 pm. So there’s really no excuse to miss this food destination.