Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack is Being Sold…and This is Good News!

02 Aug 2024

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Updated: Aug 07, 2024 13:29

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Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack is not closing!

Those ABC signs (required by law) that suddenly appear in the window of a much-loved spot tend to spread shock and dismay amongst the populace. They are an indication that change is a comin’ and in San Francisco, that often signifies a sorrowful loss. The infamous Gold Dust Lounge replaced by a jeans store, Club DeLux shuttering, and the closing of the beloved Uptown are just a few woeful examples. But for Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack – that wonderful restaurant festooned with artful kitsch and serving up the ‘best meatballs’ in the Bay – change is a good and needed thing.

I repeat, the restaurant is not closing! However, it has been sold. Sold to bartender Mike.

Emmy Kaplan opened the spaghetti shack in 2001 when she was 24 years old and pregnant. She was working as a waitress at the Flying Saucer at the time and found a space up for rent at 18 Virginia street in the then relatively quiet area nestled between the Mission and Bernal Heights. “Everyone said no one would go there but they did go ‘up there’”. They went partly because the conception of the restaurant was to provide affordable, delicious food in a fun environment until midnight to waiters, bartenders, chefs and the like after they finished work.

In those days, finding a late-night spot to eat was difficult. But people also came, because says Emmy, “mostly, the only choices then in the Mission were a fancy restaurant or a burrito spot. There was little offered in the middle ”. With the support of friends, “students, artists and punkers”, who offered ideas and recipes – “ we passionately sought to create a place that we wanted to go to offering food that we craved”.

Emmy Kaplan in the early years. Photo by Pete Lee.

As it turns out their vision was perfect for the times and a youthful, idealistic risk became a successful enterprise. But more importantly, it became a thriving neighborhood joint. One inspiring such loyalty, that when they moved ten years ago to the current location at 3230 Mission St., customers were happy to move with them. Because it is also very much a family restaurant. Emmy’s son was born as the Shack was born and both grew up together. The staff has also been a family. “There’s been little turnover with the employees in the almost 24 years since we opened, they either move away or open their own restaurants. I am still close with nearly everyone who has ever worked here”.

Many restaurants like to claim ‘family’ status but the Spaghetti Shack is the real deal. It is indeed, palpable. To go in and order dinner, even as a non-regular, is to be immediately struck by how happy the staff is to be working there and how happy they are to be working with each other. You can feel the warm glow surrounding each and every table.

Then Covid hit. Like so many other local places, the Shack struggled to stay afloat. But reviving after the lockdown took even more effort. So much had changed in the city. Many people moved away, many got used to staying at home and therefore, stopped going out as much. New people arriving often just didn’t know about those groovy places whose reputation was spread more by complimentary word of mouth rather than internet recommendations. Especially when the new ‘cool’ spot might claim more of their attention.

Running a restaurant takes an extraordinary amount of stamina and love, in general, let alone through a worldwide pandemic. Older now and living in Sonoma, Emmy recognized that she had less of the creative energy needed to keep the menu exciting. “I was doing it all on my own through Covid, working every day delivering food and even opening a temporary grocery for neighbors. I never wanted to close the Shack but I started to think about different options”.

Mike Irish, (yes, that is his real name), moved from Brooklyn to San Francisco in 2021. He’d been a bartender before he was even old enough to drink and upon arriving in the city got an offer, through mutual friends, to work at Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack. He wasn’t sure at first, but upon hearing about the offer, his wife Sara Homan – who has lived in SF for over 15 years – said, “Yes, yes! Go apply immediately!” She knew it was a great place.

He quickly became part of the family. “Mike is hilarious and the customers love him,” says Emmy. So one night, when Mike expressed interest in buying another bar up for sale – it had always been his goal, owning his own place – Emmy said, “Are you looking to buy because I’m looking to sell.” A deal was made. A deal that is the best possible decision for all concerned. Because the place will stay almost exactly as it always has been, including the name. All the staff will remain. The regular colorful decorations will persist, as well as the wildly delightful displays for the holidays and those famous meatballs will again be served up 7 nights a week.

“I would have worked hard in a place of my own to create the same vibe that Emmy created. A laid back place, a breath of fresh air, where you get to relax and enjoy eating good food with your friends”. So how did he buy it? Suspicious minds might want to know. Mike has always been good with his money, saving the cash from bartending immediately so as not to waste it on a post-work drinkathon. He was also smart in a few investments and in getting a sensible loan. But primary for the purposes of the sale has been, “Emmy’s goodwill.” Meaning that there is not one whit of profit-seeking ruthlessness in this changing of hands. The Shack is staying in the family. “It’s almost surreal. Usually, nobody just gets to take over a really great neighborhood place. I couldn’t be happier”.

Emmy’s last day of work was on her son Jaia’s 23rd birthday, a dual anniversary. A fitting moment as she is excited about handing over the reins to a new young family. Mike has a one-year-old son who, he says, will grow up in the restaurant, just like Emmy’s son did. His 9-year-old step-daughter will likely have great fun running around the tables. I don’t think the customers will mind too much.

Emmy, Mike and family.

There will certainly be some changes. New cocktails are on the list for one and some new menu items for another. But that’s all just to reinvigorate what was already great with some fresh new ideas. Being brought back, on weekends, will again be the midnight hour. In the spirit of what was before, the food will continue to be affordable, craft cocktails will run between $12-$14, (except for one very fancy one), and a nice bottle of wine at the most will be in the $50 range and all shots will cost a mere $5. “Let’s rock & roll!” says Mike.

Emmy began working in real estate 5 years ago but made the point that she’s not getting rich from it. “I might very well start working in a tasting room in Sonoma soon.” She was just ready for a change. Understandably as she has spent her entire young adulthood running the restaurant. Still though, as we talked on the phone for this article, she got a little weepy. Her love for the place and all those who have been a part of it is deep, true and enduringly affectionate.

“I’m incredibly proud and thankful for what I have created over the last 24 years! The spaghetti life has treated me well. My son is a productive member of society and on his own, and now it is time to give another young family the same opportunity. I also decided to exit gracefully without sobbing at every table since I am very close with my customers. If anyone is interested in staying in touch with me they can definitely reach out as I would love to keep in contact”. She’ll also still be there in person from time to time, delivering her signature wine and hanging out with the staff.

It’s rare these days for a changing of hands to be so genuinely harmonious, honoring both legacy and excitement for the future.

Long living in Oakland, I don’t prance around the Mission like I once did…but yet, I traveled “all the way up there” to enjoy dinner last New Year’s Eve with an Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack regular Liliana Herrera and her 24-year-old son. Kismet, as they say. I’m looking forward to visiting the Shack again soon and enjoying one of those new cocktails.

Let’s all go and celebrate the continuation!