Explore Paris: The greatest 52 hours of your life!

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By Vanessa Hutchinson-Szekely

This column is in the spirit of a “Dear Abby”, with a focus on solutions in the form of micro SF neighborhood deep dives and curated holistic health-centered itineraries. But in today’s episode, we’re venturing a bit further and exploring beloved Paris.

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Dear CITY COUNSELOR,

I hit the jackpot and scored a business trip to Paris. Oh la la! 

On top of that, my college bestie will join me for a few extra days, extending our stay through the weekend. Can you believe it? A girl’s trip to Paris in early fall!

My previous experiences in The City of Lights were quite different, from “the ol American college frenzy graduation tour of hitting up all major European capitals in two weeks with my euro pass and rucksack”, to another jaunt a decade later where I primarily hung out in the Luxembourg gardens drinking rosé because I couldn’t stop flirting with the dude renting out those wooden sailboats to kids, and most recently, binge-watching Emily in Paris for her French colleagues and shots of Paris. Now, I need your expertise. 

Could you paint me a sensorial and sensational weekend trip that Luc and Julian would approve of? I’m all ears!

Croissants for ever, 

Beret All Day Ok (BADO, short for Badoline)

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Mademoiselle Badoline,

Quelle chance you have to travel to my favorite city, outside of THE CITY!

It is with joy in my heart that I answer your question.

By Friday, your jet lag will be a distant memory, and with a 35-hour work week behind you, you’ll be primed for some more amazing experiences. Picture savoring natural wine, exploring art, and strolling through charming streets. I trust that your Parisian colleagues will show you some clutch spots during your stay, so this carefully curated itinerary will add that special local touch, taking you to the coolest, yet lesser-known parts of town. Get ready for an unforgettable time.

To kick off your adventure, make sure to book a room at Mama Shelter Paris East in the 20th arrondissement for you and your bestie.

While I adore this city, my heart lies in the northeastern quadrant of Paname, where magic seems to be ever-present. It’s no surprise, as this vibrant area embraces a beautiful blend of cultures and religions, celebrating together in harmony.

Is this the heart of Paris?

Located just steps away from the touristy spots, this trendy hotel strikes the perfect balance, blending old-school Parisian charm and elegance with a modern and cool vibe, complete with luxurious bedding. And don’t even get me started on their rooftop bar and bbq parties – they’re absolute musts! You’re in for an unforgettable experience.

Day 1:

Post checking in, put on your sneakers and take a 40 min stroll up north to Rosa Bonheur in the Buttes Chaumont park in the 19th arrondissement. This journey takes you past the Père Lachaise cemetery (don’t fret, this is on the schedule for Sunday) and through the vibrant and eclectic neighborhood of Belleville.

This “quartier” (neighborhood in French) is best known for its mix of locals and immigrants from various backgrounds. It’s also known for its bohemian and artistic flair, attracting many artists, musicians and creatives. Plus, there’s an awesome food scene and wonderful outdoor markets (classic Paris). 

You won’t be disappointed once you reach the Buttes Chaumont majesty, one of my absolute favorite places to relax and unwind in.

This park, one of Paris’ largest and most beautiful, is particularly unique as it’s very hilly and offers picturesque views of the city alongside paths to stroll on, playgrounds for children and so much lush green areas upon which to picnic.

Folks of all ages, locals and visitors alike, come to the BC for the peaceful serenity amidst the urban vastness that is Paris. There are several bridges, and paths as well as a rocky hill with a towering cliff, all contributing to making this an exceptional nature experience. 

After basking in the stunning beauty of the Buttes-Chaumont, make your way to Rosa Bonheur to continue your delightful evening. Seek out a table with some friendly faces and join the lively local crowd – you might find yourself here for hours of pure enjoyment.

Indulge in a selection of tapas, pizza, and drinks while relishing the warm and inviting ambiance that exudes the charm of southern French hospitality. At this renowned establishment, every visit starts with a drink and often evolves into an unforgettable night of dancing and laughter, or just a pizza party.

This could easily be your final destination for the night.

However, if you’re up for more music-filled shenanigans, then invite your newfound table companions to join you on another adventure merely a 30-minute stroll northward, just outside the expansive La Villette park, to La Gare/Le Gore.

Make a mental note to revisit La Villette during a future trip, as it is next to the canals and boasts Paris’ largest expanse of greenery within its limits, housing remarkable attractions like the interactive science marvel, Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, and other key sites such as the iconic Geode spherical movie theater.

Returning to La Gare/Le Gore: Situated at the peak of a charming cobblestone climb, this venue is a dual delight, offering two distinct experiences in one.

La Gare encompasses the street-level bar and concert hall, treating you to nightly live jazz performances accompanied by outdoor terraces and a food truck, all overlooking the “petite ceinture.” This is the former railway route tracing the Parisian periphery, now repurposed into a pedestrian path in certain sections. 

Arrive for the 9:30 pm musical festivities, and receive complimentary access to Le Gore, the subterranean dance hall. Alternatively, if you find yourself embracing the night owl spirit, join the queue with fellow late-night revelers after midnight, opting for the entrance fee if you’re not inclined toward the full La Gare/Le Gore experience. In either scenario, this establishment, boasting cheap and cheerful libations, nightly live music, and a dancefloor that keeps pulsating till 6am, beckons an animated crowd.

Then, as you eventually find the edges of your energy, retreat to the embrace of those luxurious sheets, for tomorrow promises another eventful day ahead.

Day 2:

Resist the tempting breakfast at the hotel and opt for a quick espresso shot to fuel your excitement for brunch at La Recyclerie. Trust me, it’s worth the wait.

If you’re feeling sporty, hop on a Velib bike, or if not, take the metro (which can sometimes feel like a sport in itself). It’s about a 30-minute ride, give or take, taking you north of the city, near Porte de Clignancourt in the 18th arrondissement, where you’ll find possibly the best brunch experience of your life. Get ready to indulge in a culinary delight that will leave your taste buds singing with joy.

Not to hyperbolize, but where else can you eat an amazingly curated plate of deliciousness while sitting in a charmingly converted train station? Yes, Paris is renowned for its exceptional cuisine, but this spot takes it to another level. Imagine a bounty of fresh, seasonal ingredients transformed in-house into beautifully colorful dishes, all served in a warm and welcoming community hub. 

Not only can you enjoy your meal here, but you can also get your bike repaired, take a sewing class, learn about ecology and recycling, or simply relish the tranquility of their gardens. Once again, like Rosa Bonheur, this place is an oasis in the middle of an urban jungle. 

Next, venture beyond the realm of greatness and meander just a tad further into the narrow windy side streets of the grandest Paris flea market. Welcome to the treasure haven of Le marché aux Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen, where antique scavenging and vintage charm reign supreme. 

Hours of treasure hunting later and you might find your arms filled with classic Hermes neck scarves, loads of exquisite jewelry, ideas to redecorate your home based on all the fabulous furniture pieces and tons of tales from the beloved vendors. They’re all so passionate about their cherished wares and love sharing stories about the items they sell, making this adventure even more enriching. This experience will surely pique your appetite once again. 

Time to head back to the hotel to drop off your armfuls of special finds. After a little relaxation, treat yourself to a rooftop aperitif before your dinner reservation at Yard Cave & Restaurant.

This awesome place, which is in the 11th arrondissement (known for their enormous array of exceptional bistros), is a 20 min walk from your hotel, basically contouring the cemetery. Brace yourself for another explosion of flavors as this restaurant offers a dual experience – dinner service on one side and a bar/casual dining area with a DJ spinning vinyl on the other.

The small menu is a culinary delight, showcasing seasonal fresh produce with a gourmet zest. 

Don’t miss out on their exceptional wine list, and feel free to ask for pairing recommendations. Come for the whole experience, and consider taking a bottle home as a souvenir of your trip.

Bon appétit & bonne nuit!

Day 3:

Start your day with breakfast at the hotel.  You’ll need all the energy for the exciting day ahead filled with sports, shopping, music, culture, and delicious food. Begin with a refreshing 20-minute walk to get your body moving. Then, whether you’re into rock climbing or yoga, head over to Arkose, your ultimate destination.

This incredible spot features vast climbing areas, bouldering, yoga studios, and a lively restaurant/cafe/bar scene. The friendly staff makes you feel right at home, and you might even consider becoming a member. Take a class or engage in some climbing before treating yourself to a big snack or meal.

Don’t be fooled by its unassuming exterior; stepping inside will reveal its impressive size and diverse offerings. Embrace the collective vibe and atmosphere, and don’t forget you can also simply stop by for a delightful outdoor lunch. 

Now, let’s move on to a bit of shopping. Take a 20-minute stroll westward (or hop on a velib) to reach Le Silence de La Rue.

This is a record store where you can indulge in the joy of multiple listening booths and discover both well-known and hidden musical gems to bring back with you. Vinyls from my own trips have always made the most cherished souvenirs. 

Cheers to this music-filled adventure!

Paris truly offers a delightful array of treasures, from niche vinyls to skincare gems. Make sure to pop into one of the many pharmacies along your route to discover cherished French products or seek assistance from a friendly pharmacist if needed. The sight of the green glowing cross is always reassuring, and I must admit, I can never get enough time in a pharmacy.

From nourishing lip balms to protective SPFs, invigorating face washes, and captivating mascaras, there’s an abundance of options to explore and fall in love with.

Happy skincare hunting!

Our next cultural stop before heading back to the hotel for a short rest is Père-Lachaise cemetery, just a 15-minute walk from the record store.

This historic cemetery is renowned worldwide for being the final resting place of many famous figures. Back in my teenage years, I used to drag my Parisian friend, Charlotte, all the way across town on the metro for our yearly pilgrimage to pay homage to Jim Morrison (#TheDoorsPhase).

Even as an adult, I still love coming here, as it offers a serene green space amidst the bustling city, with stunning architecture to admire. Alongside Morrison, you’ll find the resting places of other notable personalities like Oscar Wilde, Frédéric Chopin, Edith Piaf, and Marcel Proust, among others.

Spend 15 minutes or an hour or two—time tends to slip away in this captivating place. Besides, your hotel is nearby, so when the urge to rest before dinner strikes, you won’t have to venture far.

After your refreshing nap, your final destination for this incredible day is Le Quartier Rouge—a neighborhood wine bar, restaurant, and jazz venue all rolled into one.

The last time I visited, it felt like stepping into my idea of heaven: live music playing just feet away, in a cozy setting with delectable food options and a delicious pet nat.

The air was infused with vibrant personalities, including many regulars, and the staff’s charisma and enthusiasm only heightened the experience. Le Quartier Rouge boasts an exciting calendar of events and a changing selection of natural wines.

Trust me, every aspect of this place is a true delight. Enjoy your final night in Paris, and don’t hesitate to return for more unforgettable experiences.

As you prepare for this exciting trip, immerse yourself in the world of books and podcasts created by wonderful Americans living in the Hexagon. These authors and journalists are boots on the ground, fabulous writers who passionately share their love and knowledge of all things French. With their outsider’s perspective, they offer intriguing insights into the vast nuances of France, presenting captivating anecdotes, history, and appreciations. Their work is so compelling that you might find yourself dreaming of living in France too!

In preparation for your journey, checkout these recs:

• Books: 

• • The New Parisienne by Lindsey Tramuta. This is a gorgeous book about the glorious and eclectic mix of women who are at the heart of this city, changing the narrative on the trite one dimensional story of who is often portrayed as a parisienne. Also by Lindsey, The New Paris: a beautiful book about The City of Lights, opening up new neighborhoods and ideas of where to wander and explore.

• • The New French Wine by Jon Bonné. This is a two-tomme masterpiece about wine in France. My bestie Shlomo, from San Francisco’s Wine Meats Cheese (huge thumbs up to this local SF biz!), claims his New California Wine book is one of his bibles. Go Jon for teaching us so much about worldwide wine!

• • My Paris Kitchen by David Lebovitz. This is an amazing and beautiful cookbook to learn some mouthwatering French dishes. Or, checkout his newsletter as it’s such a great read including so many parisian tidbits, and info about his interviews and life in this magical city. His “live” instagrams got me through some dark covid moments in spring 2020. Merci David!

• Podcasts:

  • Better Travel Podcast by Paige McClanahan. This is an awesome podcast where she interviews loads of different folks in the travel industry- including the notable Rick Steves, inspiring and inciting us to be reflective about how we travel.  She’s an American living in the French alps, soon moving to Paris and also a regular NYT travel columnist who has an upcoming book on Tourism slated for the shelves mid 2024!
  • On Becoming by Zeva Bellel. This is a series of very cool interviews by a franco-american career coach where she dives into understanding people’s paths to becoming who they are. She asks great questions and this series is a gem.
    
• Music Calendar of events: 
  • Bands in town
  • Paris Jazz Clubs

Wishing you an incredible time! 

This article has reignited my flame for Paris, so you might just spot me at one of these places too 🙂

Take BIG care,

Big Belly Breathing, as THE CITY Counselor

Paris Recap:

• Move your bod: Buttes Chaumont, Velib, Arkose

• Listen to: Better Travel podcast by Paige McClanahan and On Becoming podcast by Zeva Bellel

• Food + Drinks: Rosa Bonheur, La Recyclerie, Yard Cave & Restaurant, Quartier Rouge

• Shops or buys: Le marché aux Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen; Le Silence Dans La Rue

• + culture: Pere LaChaise cemetery, 

• • Books: 

• • • Lindsey Tramuta’s The New Parisienne or The New Paris

• • • Jon Bonne’s The New French Wine 

• • • David Lebovitz’s My Paris Kitchen or his newsletter

** This article is only part Satire, i.e. ALL the characters and quotes are fictional BUT the recs are pure gold.**

** If you have any places to recommend for THE CITY Counselor, throw me a DM.

 

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