A Love Letter to San Francisco’s Mission District in 2006

Of all the things I miss the most about living in SF, I miss The Mission in 2006 the most.

Back in 2006, The Mission looked much different than it does today. I look back on the mid-2000s with fondness… favorite thrift stores, hole-in-the-wall spots to eat, and the best bars. There were a couple of higher-end restaurants and bars but The Mission was where us weirdos loved hanging out the most.

This was before Uber and getting around The City was limited to biking, skateboarding, public transportation, walking, or an occasional taxi. I once saw a guy have a meltdown in front of Blondie’s because he couldn’t get a taxi and didn’t know how to get home to The Marina. I let him know that Muni’s 22 would take him straight home but he was too drunk to understand and maybe just had never taken the bus before, I’ll never know for sure.

Businesses in the Mission District

Back then I lived in the heart of The Mission on Balmy Alley and went to grad school at The Academy of Art downtown. After my morning class was complete, I’d walk down Market Street listening to my favorite tunes on my brick of an iPod until I hit Valencia and then make my way home by hopping into all of my favorite spots along the way. By the time I’d get home, I’d be a little buzzed from the few beers I would have had but my heart would have been full. Nowadays I think back and I often wish we could get back there… thinking that maybe I could get back to that same meandering self who didn’t have a care in the world?

My Go-To Mission Haunts in 2006

So, let’s take ourselves back to 2006 together and remember the good times while we acknowledge the inevitable: Change.

Zeitgeist:

The bartenders Were Rude and The Tables Were Always Full.

My first stop on my walk home in 2006 was always Zeitgeist for a beer. Back then, the bartenders and staff were legendary for being amazing at their jobs but for having a can’t-be-bothered attitude. I remember my first time going there when my friend said to me, “Make sure they see you tip so they are nicer to you”.

Zeitgeist SF in 2005 – Flickr photo by Jeff McC

The tables were always full no matter what time I went. I’d make fast friends with a group of strangers at a table and pull out my sketchbook for a couple of hours. Sometimes I’d feel socially outgoing enough to stay long enough to order a grilled cheese from the kitchen, making sure they saw me put money in the tip jar. Today, you can order from the table and the bartenders don’t have the same sassy grit as they did before.

Still one of my favorite places. The food was good back in 2006 (most especially if Tamale Lady was around) but I have to say it’s better now. The bathrooms are way nicer and the vibes are still vibing – just maybe sans the rude(ish) bartenders. Head over there – 199 Valencia Street (@zeitgeist_sf)

The Garden at Zeitgeist – photo from @zeitgeist_sf

Clothes Contact & Mission Thrift:

Thrifting on Valencia when you’re a little buzzed was my favorite pastime.

I’d always hit up Clothes Contact as my first stop after my beer(s) at Zeitgeist. There’d inevitably be someone dressed to the nines behind the counter and I’d try to act like I belonged sifting through the amazing finds inside. I’d almost always score something amazing. Next stop on my mini-thrifting tour would then be Mission Thrift. Both are now permanently closed which is such a shame.

I still recommend thrifting in The Mission but it’s just not the same as it was back then. Where do I recommend now? Check out Community Thrift or Buffalo Exchange at 23rd and Valencia.

Clothes Contact on Valencia closed in 2015 – photo by Looking Fly on a Dime

Therapy:

Quirky cute trinkets and some affordable clothing finds.

I still will head over to Therapy Stores today when I’m in the area. Their store hasn’t changed much in the last 20 years. Still full of quirky cute things that make you chuckle and back in the 2000s, I often found my favorite going out tops there at a student budget price.

They’ve expanded and area all over The Bay now but their Mission location is at 545 Valencia St.

Needles & Pens:

If I wasn’t at a Valencia bookstore, you could find me here in the mid-2000s.

If I hadn’t spent all of my budget on thrifted items I’d find my way to Needles & Pens. Back in the mid-2000s, Needles and Pens was a fairly new shop. For art kids like myself, we knew this was the place for gallery shows, books, and also rad art supply collabs. Today, they still have some of the art and are a stellar shop for supplies like covetable handmade watercolors from Case For Making and continue to carry an amazing selection of independent press including self-published zines and magazines.

Find them at 1173 Valencia Street and needles-pens.com – (@needlesandpens)

The Needles and Pens Team in front of the store – photo from their Instagram @needlesandpens

Philz on Folsom:

The original Philz location had heart and felt like an extension of my own living room.

At this point in my journey, I’m hungry and or thirsty again and I’d choose one of a few spots for my next stop. First choice was always Philz. Only a couple blocks from my apartment, this coffee shop felt like home to me. I’d sometimes play chess with a neighbor or two, and I often found myself grabbing a bagel on weekends, especially if I was hungover from a night out at my fav late night hang, Pops, the night before.

Philz is still very much around but this particular location has since closed. Back then there was just one Philz, today they have over 14 locations in The Bay Area. More info about them on their website philzcoffee.com and Instagram @philzcoffee

Philz Castro location is the closest location to their original spot in The Mission – photo from the Philz Instagram

Last stop was always for a burrito or taco:

There was no question about it, The Mission had the best burritos in SF.

At this point on the journey I’m nearly home but if I was still hungry I’d grab a burrito from any of the amazing burrito places in the area. A while back we voted Papalote the heaviest burrito in SF. While I often went there for their shrimp burrito, my favorite go-to burrito joint was Taqueria Vallarta, not because it was the best but because it was nearly next door to my house and I was exhausted by the adventure home. Today I’d probably head to La Vaca Birria but there are just so many great places in The Mission for an amazing burrito that I’ll save you from a full list of spots.

The Mission wasn’t the safest neighborhood but it had heart, and still does. But the vibe was totally different and I miss it. I’ve embraced change – as they say it’s the only constant. I loved the grit, the graffiti, the hipsters walking around, and the small businesses that gave The Mission so much character. Had I known how much it would change since those days, I would have soaked it in even more.

Balmy Alley – The Mission