San Francisco’s Newest Destination Bakery Is In Hayes Valley

PHOTOS AND WORDS BY ANDY SAMWICK

When a line forms in San Francisco — in the fickle weather we always seem to have — you know it’s got to be for something tasty. I braved the wind for the new-ish Loquat in Hayes Valley, a Jewish bakery from the Four Barrel and Mill team, that brings a former pastry chef from Tartine to a suite of babka, cookies, and cakes. Take the kubaneh platter. Tal Mor, owner and menu collaborator, explains his weekend special is a traditional breakfast on Shabbat where the buttery rolled dough bakes overnight along with a cured egg braised for eight-hours. The cafe is open Wednesday through Sunday, and offers an assortment of babka including salted chocolate and cinnamon date sugar.

The shop’s bourekas rotate flavors including the spiced chickpea, the kabocha squash, and the toma cheese. Loquat also carries an assortment of special daily pastries, such as tarts with ingredients like preserved lemon and thyme, Turkish coffee cream, and loquat cheesecake with roasted quince. There’s a thoughtful selection of wine and other pantry items, like specialty vinegar and chocolate, and coffee to stock up on. Another San Francisco treat.

Andy Samwick is a bon vivant who brings decades of food and beverage insight to the table.