Kayaking in Point Reyes was Bioluminescence Magic
Last Friday on a moonless night, Liz Willhelm and Dallas Smith, owners of Point Reyes Adventure Co. made my dream to see bioluminescence on Tomales Bay come true. Combining their love of adventure, fifteen years of guiding kayaking tours, and delicious food, these two curated a unique experience. I was traveling in support of The Alliance for Felix Cove, which is an organization that advocates for the restoration and protection of the only remaining 19th century Tamalko (Coast Miwok Tomales Bay) – built home at Point Reyes National Seashore.
We were visiting the ancestral lands of one of the Strawberry Leadership Circle members of the Alliance to build community and connect with the land.
To begin the trip, we were greeted in Marshall with delicious pastries from the nearby Bovine Bakery and coffee brewed by Cute Coffee, another West Marin favorite. Dallas and Liz quickly assessed our kayaking experience (extreme beginners to seasoned veterans) and got us all quickly and safely onto the water.
On the eight-mile paddle to Felix Cove leopard sharks slinked by in the mud and curious harbor seals popped up to watch us pass. Apparently, if you yell “Seal!” they seem to recognize that they’ve been spotted. We were advised to find a different way to describe them. I settled for “Fatty Bubble Head” and it seemed to work well for both of us.
“Harbor seals can be found throughout Tomales Bay and Drakes Estero. Point Reyes has the second largest harbor seal population in the state with about 20% of the population living or breeding here.” says Liz. Home to the diminutive tule elk, osprey, deer, and a host of other seabirds and animals, Point Reyes’ rich ecosystem is always worth a visit.
Once on the shore of Felix Cove, lunch arrived in the form of gorgeous bento boxes. Recognizing that we were being given a thoughtfully selected menu, I sought out Dallas to find out more. His eyes lit up as he began to explain. “Each event starts with a meet and greet over Bovine Bakery pastries, Cute Coffee, and Dream Farm mushroom hot chocolate.
Our full-day trips include lunch, which is typically Bento Boxes from Kinoko Japanese or sandwiches from Inverness Park Market or Brickmaiden Breads. Many tours have a mid-trip break on a beach where we offer oysters from Tomales Bay Oyster Company or Hog Island and/or a cheese plate w/ a variety of local cheeses, with one of our go-tos being Toluma Farms.” He told me enthusiastically. Most of these companies are woman-owned as well as being local.
As we ate, a large white form burst out of the water and landed with an inelegant belly flop. “That’s probably a Thresher Shark.” Dallas told me. “I like to think that they yell ‘Wheee’ when they do that”. Dallas and Liz’s deep connection to Point Reyes shows in every part of their business based on collaboration and sustainability.
After a jaw-dropping charcuterie board and a fantastic ramen bowl feast, we get down to the business of Bioluminescence. After the sun set we slipped out onto the water and watched with delight as each paddle stroke lit up with blue light. Fish darted under us and left flickers of blue light in their wake. As we floated under the Milky Way, I dipped my hand into the water and felt like I had a handful of stars.
“On Tomales Bay, the bioluminescence is more of a surface-dwelling organism. Tiny phytoplankton called dinoflagellates photosynthesize during the day, hold on to that energy, and then release it as bioluminescence at night when there is a disturbance in the water. When there is motion in the water sensory organs along the outer margin of the cell detect the motion and release an enzyme (luciferase) that causes the plankton to emit light.
The general consensus as to why they illuminate is the burglar alarm theory. When you are a single-celled organism there are many things for which you are on the menu for dinner, such as filter feeders, zooplankton, and even krill. By lighting up they are attracting larger predators to eat what is eating them,” Liz explained.
If you are not used to camping, Liz and Dallas have you covered. All the tents, sleeping bags, chairs and food were provided by our hosts. “We thrive creating meaningful and impactful experiences for our guests and have found that private tours help to create that container of safety and connection. Any of our offerings can be tailored to private groups and set up for dates not listed on the calendar.” Liz explains.
If you would like to take a kayaking tour or camping trip, you can check out their calendar of events. You might even spot me on the Sunset Sea Chanties and Bioluminescence tour.
Here’s a link to their calendar with all of their upcoming public enrollment tours.
Sunset Sea Chanties & Bioluminescence
Black Canyon Hot Springs Tour – Spring 2025 – an hour outside of Las Vegas
Visit for pointreyesadventureco.com more information
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