Automat Closed And With It Went My Heart
PHOTOS AND WORDS BY ANDY SAMWICK
Thanks to inflation, going on a date these days requires choosing a spot with a lovely ambiance and is consistently delicious but also doesn’t break the bank. Seems like the tallest of orders. But there are those spots in San Francisco, and I was reminded of a particular favorite that has offered so many fond memories when I heard news of its closing.
Automat closing is as gut wrenching to me as losing Anchor Steam. Talk about the greatest date spot ever. The restaurant at some point was delivering the best deal in town, as far as I am concerned. It allowed us patrons to let the staff do all the dinner selections. That’s right: You basically got the evening’s menu for a fraction of a typical tasting menus’ cost around town, especially in comparison to brother restaurant Lazy Bear and its pre-fixed menu.
And there were so many delicious dishes. There was one night when we got Automat’s garlicky pretzel focaccia as well as a scallop crudo blessed with ruby red grapefruit and kumquats. Up next, Automat’s little gem wedge with that incredible herbed buttermilk dressing and sprouted lentils and ooh, this puffed wild rice. A savory candy cap panna cotta with Tsar Nicholas caviar, maple syrup, and that outrageous sweet potato blini came marching out in all its glory. The team always had rotating seasonal peppers with cashew cheese placed on the table for snacking as well. Can’t forget the pasta course, the squid tonnarelli with broccolini pesto. And finally, their main course that evening, charcoal-grilled squab with “best bbq sauce” and a cheddar biscuit. We closed our meal (and had very kissable breath) thanks to a gooey sourdough chocolate chip cookie and a persimmon semifreddo with some more of those delectable grapefruits and kumquats.
It was stupendous and affordable. Not only did we feel romantic for one another, but for this loving environment that was created around us.My date was pleased on every occasion we experienced this cozy, elevated momentary space. Automat closed August 27 and I know I am not alone in my sentiments around the humility that I had for the user-friendly option to the larger ethos of David Barzelay and his crew. Thank you for indulging us.
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